Day 9
August 17th Depart Bude
Arrive Crackington Haven | Accommodation: Coombe Barton Inn
Distance 15.8 KM | Cumulative Distance: 207.23 KM | Grade – Strenuous
Ascent 2664 FT | Cumulative Ascent: 27,096 FT
Google Map Crackington Haven
Woke at 6 am after probably my worst nights sleep since arriving in England. Due to all the fluids I was drinking, on the big hike from Hartland Quay to Bude, I must have been to the bathroom 5 times, and every time I rolled over I felt the duvet slip off. Decided to stay in bed until 7 am, and then I got up, showered, dressed and finished packing my bag. I then decided to kill time by seeing what was on TV and managed to find a soccer show and highlights of all the goals from Saturday's games. 20 minutes later it was time for breakfast.
I stepped outside at 8 - 40 am to put on my boots and gaiters, which is a time consuming process, and by 8 - 50 am I was ready for the off. I had actually put my backpack on but had to take it off to get out my waterproof coat as it had started to rain. My mind went back to departing Porlock a week ago, when conditions were very similar, the only difference being this day had an added element, which was my nemesis, the wind! I turned left out of the gate, and then at the end of the street it was a quick left and right turn and I was heading to the coast, splitting the golf course on my way. As I was going past the green of a Par 3 hole, two golfers were hitting their lengthy putts, and still had some work ahead of them to save Par. The greens looked in perfect condition, and I thought to myself, you have to be hardy to golf in this part of the World!
I soon found myself at the spot where I had said my farewell's the day before, to Katherine and her husband Phil, and turned left to follow the path down to to the main beach, the only problem was the signs had disappeared and the way head was blocked by a canal that leads from the sea and runs through the centre of Bude. I then followed "my nose" into down to find the two bridges I needed to cross in order to get over the canal. I had a bit of a sense where to go, as I had gone into town for dinner the night before and the trail was up past The Falcon Hotel. It led up a narrow road leading up past a church and shortly thereafter there was my Coast marker indicating I was on the right path. The trail led up a grassy field, where it spilled me out onto a second field, then a third and a fourth. I had a feeling today was going to be a lonely day, mainly due to the weather. It was bleak! But wait, what's this, I don't believe it. Here was a middle aged guy running the cliff tops! Shortly thereafter there was another runner, who was going my way, and both runners were wearing short sleeve shirts. Truly amazing!
The path was pretty straight forward all the way to Widemouth Bay (pronounced Widmuth), where I was finally passed by a walker who was wearing a camelback, but no pack, and he was soon on his way. The weather had not co-operated to allow any photo's but here was an opportunity as the rain had stopped, and so I grabbed the I-Pad Mini and took a shot of the waves! They were chasing each other onto the beach, and it was very powerful!
I put the camera away and strode along the path into Widemouth, and noticed a huge black cloud rolling in and debated stopping for a coffee, if I could find one, but the rain hit before I could locate anything. I was actually in the sand dunes, which led me to and through the car park and back to the trail. The path now led into and through dense brush, where I now had to follow a steep road that went up and around 4-5 corners before I picked up the path again just past a car park that had 4 - 5 cars parked and people walking their dogs.
You have to be very careful when way-finding as it can be very easy to take a public footpath. The true SW Coast Path is either marked thus, or with the sign of the Acorn. There are also yellow arrows pointing the way and in town you have to be on your toes (pardon the pun), for bronze footprints that are inserted into the pavement pointing the way.
After picking up the trail again I crossed a field and was then faced with a steep descent to pick up another road, which like the previous road led steeply uphill. It was on this road that I met another through hiker, a women, who was not too communicative, and we said hello and each carried on their way. I guess we both wanted to get the walk done as the weather was not conducive to standing about chatting.
I was now back on the trail and ended up entering a wood and the trail went down before crossing a small stream, and then I was almost out of the wood before I decided to stop for lunch. The reason being I was finally out of the wind, although with nowhere to sit, but that was preferable to being exposed to the elements. Lunch was short and sweet as I wanted to get on. After leaving the forest I was met with several fields and then a rather steep and deep descent. The wind was howling, and I was stopped in my tracks at the ascent that faced me on the other side of the valley. It was scary!
I started to descend and about a third of the way down I suddenly realized there were two people ahead of me also moving down. They were going pretty slowly and it became apparent the young women was somewhat concerned with both the wind and descent she was enduring. I caught up with them at the bottom, and they were doing the hike from Bude to Crackington Haven and catching the bus back. I told them to be careful on the climb, and stated my ascent. It was one o'clock when I started up and when I checked at the top ichec ked my watch and was pleasantly surprised that it had taken me 6 minutes to get up. At the top was a marker that said Tresmorn, and I was very happy to have summited this intimidating climb. Obviously after a week, I'm fitter and stronger, but at the time you don't think that!
The path now led through several more fields, each containing cows, but the last field was empty and this is where things got interesting as the path seemed to disappear in the gorse. After carefully studying where I was I decided to take the path that was the most obvious, as it was heading in the direction I felt it should be going, and eventually found a marker indicating I was of the right track. Here was another steep descent, but the climb up the other side, while daunting looking, did not seem as scary as Tresmorn.
Down I descended and soon after I was starting the climb, which as it turns out was the last one of the day, as no sooner was I on top that I found a sign indicating Crackington Haven, 1/2 mile. After a brief walk across the top I found the gate, with an arrow pointing left, and there was the descent and 10 minutes later Crackington Haven had been bagged!!!
I checked into the only accommodation in the area, The Coombe Barton Inn, and was thrilled and delighted with my room, as I have a huge king size bed and huge bathtub. I feel so blessed after the day I've had!!!
Tomorrow is a huge day as I'm expecting to exceed the height of Everest with my walk to Tintagel. So stay tuned!
Now here's the handful of today pictures.
Widemouth Bay. Check out the waves!
Here is one of the hundreds of styles I've had to climb over. Check out the wooden slat with the hole in it. Can you guess what it is? See the picture below for the answer.
The slat with the hole in it is so you can let your dog into or out of the field. You just lift it up! ( I've used my hiking pole to wedge it open).
Pathetic path ahead. Hopefully I get a better day tomorrow so I can take more shots!