Day 8

August 16^th Depart Hartland Quay

Arrive Bude Accommodation: Tee-Side Guest House

Distance 24.5 KM | Cumulative Distance: 191.43 KM | Grade – Severe

Ascent 4,272 FT | Cumulative Ascent: 24,432 FT

Google Map Bude

Woke up really early and could have got up and left by 6 am! The problem was I was in bed by 9 am and although I awoke several times was able to go back to sleep again. My body clock now adjusted to UK time, and with all the exercise and fresh air, I'm sleeping a lot better.

I managed to stay in bed until 7 and then got up, showered, dressed and finished packing my bag and at 7-45 am went down to check out. I was hoping to get into the dining room early but unfortunately the door was locked shut so I had to sit in the lounge to while away the 25 minutes that I had to kill before breakfast at 8-15 am. Katherine joined me at 8 and she was quite excited as she was finally going to see her husband Chris, who she hadn't seen for 3 weeks as he had been in the US on business. Katherine was also going to see her father, daughter, sister and numerous family members, as today was her last day of walking and they are spending the next week in Bude. At 8-15 the door opened and we were allowed in and quickly ordered our breakfast as we were anxious to get away, as today's walk has earned the reputation of being the toughest day of the entire 630 mile length of the path.

By 9-45 am we were off and were immediately faced with a stiff 300 - 400 foot climb, within 20 metres of the Hotel, it was quite the introduction to the day. The next hour of the trail was actually quite pleasant as we wound our way through field after field on the cliff tops, and on one occasion when we looked back we were blown away by the spectacular view of where we had come from, and a little further on experienced the same feelings about the path ahead. It is certainly stunningly beautiful country.

We passed a couple who were out for a day hike, and they were heading to Morwenstowe, which is about halfway to Bude, and we would spend the next couple of hours with them in relatively close contact.

We were thoroughly enjoying the hike along the cliff tops and I asked Katherine how many climbs and descents her book said for today's hike and she said 7. I said to her my book was calling for 10, and this seemed to deflate Katherine a little, so I said, look at it another way. Once we have navigated 5 climbs and descents we would either be halfway through with the climbing, or at the very least broken it's back. This seemed to cheer Katherine up and no sooner had we said that came upon the first of the ascents which was followed by a very stiff climb back up to the cliff tops.

After 3 of these climbs we were on our way down, at about 11-30, when we came upon a hut that used to belong to a writer and poet, and it had been turned into a little bit of a museum, and walkers were invited in. As it had started to rain we thought it might be a good place to stop for 5 minutes and give us a chance to assess whether we needed to put on our rain gear or not. Shortly after we had got in the couple who we had seen all morning came in, and the lady looked very tired! The gentleman she was with lives close to Minehead, and Terry, (the lady in question) had come down from London. They get together regularly to walk various parts of the trail, but Terry did not seem to be relishing this leg of the journey!

After a few minutes I made a decision that it was time to leave, and decided not to don the rain gear and headed out, followed by Katherine. It wasn't raining, just spitting and down we went. Some of the descents were incredibly steep, as were the climbs up and we were being very careful to keep a tally of how many we had knocked off.

At noon we had knocked off the 5th climb of the day, and the sun had broken out and it was lovely, and so we stopped for lunch, which for me was the obligatory tuna salad sandwich, a Kit-Kat and a bar that was packed with energy. We decided to take a full 30 minute break due to all the exertion and 1-00 pm came in a flash.

Eventually we arrived at the first of two very impressive radar facilities. I'm not sure exactly what they were for but I do know there must have been at least a dozen or so at each place.

Katherine had anxiously been scanning her mobile phone all day and monitoring both her husband and sisters travels down to Cornwall, but in and around the radar station she was getting no signal at all.

After our 7th climb we came across a sign asking us to be aware of the rare mountain sheep in the area, and no sooner were we through one of the many gates along the path than we saw the 3 sheep together. A picture is shown below.

There were still climbs ahead and so Katherine's book was incorrect in its information and there was the 8th descent and climb beckoning us. The descent from this climb was pretty hairy, as the signs kept steering us out to the point and the wind was beginning to howl, so on the final turn before the long descent I had my poles in one hand, while I leaned into the cliff face and hurried down until I was out of the wind.

We were now close to breaking the back of all the climbs but both 9 and 10 were pretty severe and at the top of the 10th climb we celebrated with high fives! By this time Katherine's phone was getting service and she was thrilled and delighted to know that her husband had joined the path at Bude, and was walking towards her with her beloved dog.

We were now back on top of the cliffs hat were now tilting in our favour and we had a most enjoyable trail that was angling down to Bude. All of a sudden Katherine let out a shriek of delight, as there, just a hundred years ahead of us was her husband Phil and the dog! Phil and Katherine were very happy to see each other and I'm fully expecting that's how Liz and I will be next week!

After a couple of miles we were in Bude and I could see the golf course, where my accommodation was located right behind the club house, so it was time to say farewell to Katherine and Phil and for me to go and find my B and B. It had been a pleasure walking with Katherine, she is a very accomplished walker and excellent company, and just hope I'm as fortunate in the days ahead as I have been thus far with my walking companions.

I arrived at my B and B at 4-30 pm after 7 hours and 45 minutes of walking, and made myself a well deserved cup of tea and watched the football scores on the BBC. Old habits die hard, and I was instantly transferred back to a former life when I lived in England!

After a while I enjoyed a long warm shower before dressing and heading out for dinner, where I'm composing this blog at the Falcon! I enjoyed a great plate of fish and chips with mushy peas, and as soon as I've posted this blog will have dessert before heading back to my accommodation for a well earned rest.

Now, are you ready for some pictures?