Day 21

August 31, 2015

Depart Lulworth Cove | Arrive Worth Matravers, Accommodation: Chiltern Lodge, Worth Matravers

Distance: 19.7KM | Cumulative Distance: 504.6KM | Grade - Strenuous

Ascent: 3,061 ft | Cumulative Ascent: 51,515 ft.

Cumulative Distance (both walks): 968.6 KM | Cumulative Ascent (both walks): 113,220 ft.

Great Start - Hairy Finish

Last night I did not sleep well at all, and I believe the reason was because I could not get warm. I kept on one of my Merino walking shirts from last years 1st leg, my underwear (clean of course) and a small pair of golf socks but was still chilled. At about 12-30 I went to the bathroom and when I got back into my room, (the bathroom is shared), I found an extra blanket which I threw on the bed, this seemed to do the trick and I eventually drifted off th sleep.

I eventually woke around 5 past 7 but got up to get ready as there was a 40 minute drive after breakfast, back to Lulworth Cove where the hike was to ensure. This was a leg that I had great trepidation about, not because of what lay ahead, but rather whether I was going to be on the actual SW Coast Path, or if I would have to do a detour inland. The reason for the possible re-routing is because the official trail goes through an area where the British Military have a huge expanse of land that is used to train tank crews. During the summer the range walks are open but you are strongly warned not to deviate outside of the two yellow markers that are spaced apart by about 12-15 feet and located every 100 yards or so. The reason being there is live ammunition scattered around. When I was planning my trip I was aware of the possibility I may get re-routed but was keeping my fingers and toes crossed that I wouldn't and so on the drive over to Lulworth, David did a quick detour and the sign clearly said Range Walks Open, so I was very happy as I would have hated not to be on the official path.

I asked David if he could drop me at the Durdle Dor car park, as in all of the confusion yesterday, with the mass of people, I missed the obvious trail and took a secondary path down to the Village. It was raining when I got up, but by the time I got out the car it was damp and blowy but if the day stays like it is I'll take it in a heartbeat. I set off and quickly found the correct path and worked my way down the long flight of steps to the village and quickly found the sign that pointed the way. I was being routed to Stair Hole, also known as the Lulworth Crumple, which is a famous sight, and consists of 3 different types of rock, and although it was lightly drizzling I felt it might be a picture you would enjoy. It was actually 3 pictures that I knocked off one after the other.

From there the path took me back down to the beach area where I turned left to go back up the hill, past the village, and where I found an official marker taking me up to the cliff top. The first climb of the day is always is always one to get the heart racing, but I was feeling good and strong. The first objective was Binden Hill and along the way I came to the official entry point onto the military land, which, after passing through the gate was a great relief. The walking was spectacular, as it was ridge walking at its finest, with the ocean on my right and the military land on my left, the only thing missing was the sunshine and the blue sky, but I contented myself with the light drizzle and blowy conditions as it could have been a lot worse. The further I got along the ridge the more interesting the views left, as all of a sudden I was seeing military hardware some of which were old, disused tanks that were used for target practice and other pieces that looked to be the real thing from my untrained eye. Where is my good buddy Chuck when I need a professional opinion. Right at the end of Binden Hill was a wicked climb down, much steeper that what I had encountered at the other end, and I had to be extra careful going down as it was both slick and steep going down the steps. I eventually made it safely to the bottom but was then faced with a dilemma as there were one pair of yellow markers at the bottom of a steep hill, but nothing any higher that I could see, and going to my left, almost on a road were numerous markers. I got out my book and it was obvious which was my path and it was the one up the hill!

Off I set and once on top I looked back and noticed someone coming down the stairs and as I turned I noticed a gentleman coming from the way I was going, so we had a quick hello, how's your walk, and we were back to going our separate ways. This second descent was even trickier than the first and extra care and attention was required. There was now a third climb to be negotiated and this was even bigger than the first two, but with the pasta and crumble that Ann had provided last night I was feeling strong and quickly climbed to the top only to find an even worse descent than I had experienced previously this morning. There was another climb but nothing compared to the earlier hills and eventually I was faced with a choice, left to Kimmeridge, which was along the top, or a descent down to Kimmeridge Bay, and so I opted to drop down and once I was out of the wind I stopped to have lunch. David and Ann had continued with their generosity and provided me with a free lunch. I feel so blessed by all of the incredible acts of kindness towards what we are trying to achieve with this walk. David and Ann thank you, please know you are very special people.

After lunch I carried on down to the bottom of the cliffs and then came the moment of truth. At Kimmeridge you are done with the Military range, but as I turned the corner I could see the gate but was unable to tell if it was open or not, and I was scanning to see if there were any obvious exit strategies just in case. Based on my two previous encounters with military installations I was taking no chances. As I got closer I got the answer I was looking for and the gate was wide open. I quickly went through and let out a big sigh of relief.

From Kimmeridge Bay I made enquiries as to where the village was and told it was about a mile inland so I decided to pass and carry on. The path took me around the small bay and then up a flight of stairs where the next 3 1/2 were along the cliff tops. The path was relatively narrow and extremely slick and muddy so I paid particular attention to where I was going. Every now and again the path was only 3-4 feet away from the edge but I wasn't too bothered, as by now the sun had made an appearance and I was making good time. It was amazing the number of people coming from the opposite direction and the messages, from both sides, was to be careful of the slick mud. I never felt in any danger but that's because I was being extra diligent. Finally the path went down and then came to arguably the biggest climb of the last 3-4 days. It was a monster, but I was now moving very well and if I'm being honest I would rather go up than come down, or battle through the mud or wind and before long I was on top where I enjoyed a long drink before going back down. I was now only 2-3 miles from Worth Matravers and once at the bottom the sign pointed me inland and this is where my problems started. I must have gone 3/4 mile inland before realizing the sign was wrong and so I doubled back and ended up "bush-whacking" down, across, and up a ravine and the path was treacherous as it led me through a maze of brambles and the footing was the worst I've encountered all the trip. I stumbled once, headfirst Into the brambles and the only thing hurt, apart from my pride, was a thorn in one of my fingers which I quickly extricated, and then I was off to try and find the trail. Before I started down the ravine I'd made a mental note of a gate I'd seen and I eventually found it. As I was going through the gate I looked back and there was a young family setting off down the ravine and I hope they have better success than I did. I had found the path again and set off and the rest of the trail, apart from all the mud, was uneventful. I'm posting this and once I've done so I'm heading to my good friend Bruce's favorite pub, The Square and Compass, to buy Ann and David a drink for their incredible hospitality.