Day 19

August 29, 2015

Depart Portland | Arrive Portland, Accommodation: Royal Breakwater Hotel, Portland

Distance: 21.3KM | Cumulative Distance: 461.7KM | Grade - Moderate

Ascent: 1,112 ft | Cumulative Ascent: 46,069 ft.

Cumulative Distance (both walks): 925.7 KM | Cumulative Ascent (both walks): 107,774 ft.

What a beautiful day!

Woke up at about 6 after a pretty decent sleep, which was surprising as it was relatively noisy outside when I climbed into bed around 10-30pm, which shouldn't be too surprising as I'm staying in a pub in a part of town that I certainly wouldn't visit. I enjoyed a wonderful evening with Steve and Helen, and we drove into Weymouth to find dinner. Weymouth was very pretty around the inner harbour area and very trendy with lots of neat restaurants and things to see and do. For instance there was a home that was 3 or 4 hundred years old that originally was built right on the harbour, but which was now situated on the street with houses right across from it. We thought we'd enjoy a drink before dinner and I had my usual tipple which was a glass of lemonade. I know how to hold my drink!

For dinner Steve and Helen very kindly indulged me in going to an Italian place called Prezzo, so I could stock up on pasta ready for today's walk, and we all enjoyed our meals. There was a bonus at the end as Steve very kindly picked up the tab, thanks so much guys, you are the best. If I'd known Steve was buying I would have had the ciabatta bread and oil, a bowl of soup and a dessert, but I settled on a bowl of pasta and salmon which was very good. Steve, Helen, just joking about the extra food!

It was getting cool when we left the restaurant to head back to the car, but I think it was a combination of the time of night and the physical exhaustion of the past couple of days. When I met Steve and Helen yesterday they went up Golden Cap, which was a fair walk from where they started so I'm not surprised they were tired.

Although breakfast was being served as early as 7 we agreed to meet at 8, as Helen and Steve wanted to wave me off before their 200 mile drive to Newquay to meet up with Helen's family, where over the next week there will be 35 people coming and going. By the time we said our farewells I finally got away at around 8-55, but was a little saddened at leaving my friends behind.

I quickly found the path, which was within 100 yards of the hotel, and turned up it to find a long steady climb up to the cliff tops, whilst it was strenuous it was nothing compared to the last few days and there was a bonus as the sun was on my shoulders and it was a glorious morning. After about 400-500 yards of climbing the trail turned right and I was now walking on what would have been the train line 50 years or go, and it was fun to follow it around the side of the hill. The first hour of the walk was pretty enjoyable, as after leaving the train track I was now following the path as it wended its way through a disused quarry, and shortly after it took me behind Verne Prison, it was here that the path took a dramatic turn left and I was now being routed down, down, down almost, but not quite, to sea level. This path was more the norm of what I've experienced the last 2 1/2 weeks or so, and what I'm going to miss awfully come Wednesday. I cannot believe where the last 3 weeks have gone!

The trail now went up and down and through areas where quarrying activity was evident, and then before I knew it I was back on the road, albeit briefly (6-700 yards or so) before being pushed back to more familiar territory. From here I only had 2 miles or so before I reached the famous British landmark that is Portland Bill, photos of which you will find below.

I was now turning to follow the path back up to the top end of Portland and the trail was excellent, it was a grassy track almost all the way, which ran across the top of the cliffs and enjoyed spectacular views across Chesil Beach and to places I was walking 2-3 days ago. As I was getting close to this spectacular walk I saw a fellow free climbing, and he was almost at the top so I stopped and got a picture and was then on my way again. I admire these kind of "athletes" but you could not pay me enough to have a go at this type of activity.

Just before reaching my goal, which was Chiswell Beach there was not one, but two diversions, the 2nd of which was into a granite quarry full of stones that had been carved. There were some neat pieces and I took several photos of some very creative artwork. Shortly thereafter I found the path down to the beach and from there I quickly found my way back to the hood! I mean my hotel.

After a shower I changed into the only shirt and shorts that I wasn't going to take to the laundry and then headed out for the 10-12 minute walk to the launderette where I was going to get everything cleaned before the last 3 days of this spectacularly epic walk. I wanted to try and feel normal again if that's at all possible. I walked up to the laundry where the lady who worked there was extremely helpful and I threw all my dirty laundry into the machine and the lady topped up the machine with free detergent, (sorry Helen, the stuff you gave me Is for hand washing only) and then while the laundry was whizzing round I popped up the road for a coffee and savoury scone at my new favourite place, The Gallery Cafe. After 30 minutes I went back to the laundry, threw everything into the dryer, for a 10 minute dry and then it was back to the cafe for another coffee and to write this blog. It's so pleasant here compared to where I have to go back to, and so I thought why not tarry a while here?

Knowing what I know now, I could easily have carried on walking for another 3-4 hours which would have got me a few miles further along but that's ok. Now for some pictures.