Day 17

August 27, 2015

Depart Lyme Regis | Arrive Abbotsbury, Accommodation: Cowards Lake B&B, Abbotsbury

Distance: 31.3KM | Cumulative Distance: 413.9KM | Grade - Moderate/Strenuous

Ascent: 3,372 ft | Cumulative Ascent: 44,002 ft.

Cumulative Distance (both walks): 877.9 KM | Cumulative Ascent (both walks): 105,707 ft.

STALKERS ON THE LOOSE!!

Before I start this next page in the Blog I think it only appropriate that I take a minute to thank Andrew MacDonald, from Opportunity International, who has been a huge help in getting the blog posted. More often than not something has cropped up that makes it difficult to post, take tonight for example, I'm not going to get finished until after 10 o'clock and then I have to pack my bag for tomorrow, and so Andrews assistance is invaluable. So Andrew I just want to thank you for all your help and let you know how much I appreciate it.

Last night was probably the worst sleep of the entire trip! Or should that be lack of sleep? I actually turned the lights out around 10-30, due to being late finishing up the blog, and slept well enough initially. After all what wasn't there to like about the bed? It was comfy and had great pillows and the only thing I can think of is I may have been overtired. Anyway I woke up around midnight and was so hot I ended up throwing off the quilt, which I think may have been the problem. I now have an inkling of what it's like for women going through menopause! Every place I've stayed has quilts on the beds and I'm thinking it's overkill, after all it's supposed to be summer.

Anyhow I was up shortly after 7 and did my usual morning routine and headed down shortly before 8 for breakfast, and finally got away by about 8-55am. As I was sitting, putting on my short gaiters and boots, I noticed a group of 2 men and 1 women, probably in their late 40's, go by on the opposite side of the road. Shortly thereafter I too was on the move and started up the road, from the B&B, past the football ground where I discovered the path going through a wet and muddy field. I caught up to the people ahead of me, and they told me they were going to Charmouth Bay, where they were going to have a cup of tea before walking back along the beach as low tide was at around 10-30am. At the end of the field the path led into a small wooded area and the obligatory first climb of the day, nothing major, and we eventually ended up at a golf course that we had to cross. The way was marked with white stones, and in all I think we crossed two fairways. On the far side of the course we went through more woods before coming out onto a road that led down to Charmouth Bay. The first section of the walk had been a detour because there hand been land slippage just this side of Lyme Regis hence the re-routing.

After saying farewell to the group I set off behind the beach to the marker pointing up the hill and was faced with yet another detour, the 3rd in less than 24 hours. This meant I had to go to the Interpretive Centre, as they had information maps of the detour, and I duly picked up my map and was on my way. It was disappointing being detoured but I'm at least thankful that the authorities put the sign at the bottom of the hill thereby saving time. The detour took me up the side of the river and through the caravan park, over a bridge and then deposited me into Stonebarrow Lane which was a steep uphill climb. On the way I was joined by a fellow with his dog, and we joined in conversation as we slogged up the hill. As we were nearing what we hoped was the top, a women in her mid 30's, I'm guessing, came by slowly running up the hill, and she certainly gets 10 out of 10 for effort. Shortly the fellow I was with found the bridle path that led us back to the official route and we were on our way. The fellows name I was walking with was Terry and his dog was Bruce. Terry was an interesting character insomuch as he had been in the military for a number of years but was now retired and worked in a care home 3 days of the week. Terry was an avid outdoors person and has ran numerous marathons and just completed the Boston marathon, but he had just rediscovered his passion for walking. Something he said really struck a chord with me as we were walking, and he picked it up from talking with old men in the care home where he worked. They all said its not the things they did that they regret, it's the things they didn't do. I think there's a valuable lesson for us all there somewhere.

One of the things on Terry's Bucket List is to walk the PCT, (Pacific Crest Trail), which was made famous by the book and movie of the same name Wild. I said to him that funnily enough that was on my list to, but unlike this trip, I would not contemplate doing it without 4-5 other guys as it's just too dangerous to do it solo it with one other person. I also said it had to be the right group of guys as everyone would have to be on the same wavelength. Terry certainly has all the attributes you would look for in a team-mate as he's affable, obviously enjoys walking and has outdoor skills honed in the military that would be invaluable, like map reading, camping etc. So watch this space, you never know!

We were heading for Gold Cap which is the highest point on the South Coast, and this was by far the biggest climb of the day. I must say it makes it so much easier when you have company, and before I knew it we were on top. Terry was obviously going to have lunch there before heading back the way he came, and so before departing I gave Terry my email address verbally, as neither of us had a pen, and then I was off down the back side of Gold Cap. The descent was certainly easier than the ascent and apart from one really muddy stretch it was pretty good terrain all the way down to Seatown.

From Seatown there is a short, stiff climb up to Ridge Cliff, where I, and a number of other folks out walking, encountered a herd of grazing cows and shortly after, as I was walking down towards the next climb up I came across not one, but two stalkers! It was my good friends Steve and Helen, who I'm meeting up with tomorrow night. To say I was surprised was understatement. They were on the way to climb Gold Cap but I told them not to bother in the shoes they were wearing, as it was extremely muddy and treacherous, and the last thing I want is for either of them to hurt themselves.

After saying our farewells it was off to climb another hill before descending into and then departing from Eype Mouth and shortly after I arrived in West Bay which was full of people but short on amenities. There were 3-4 places side by each, that were competing with each other but they all seemed to be thriving so I settled on a latte and carrot cake, which was ok. Upon leaving West Cliff there was a steep climb and then a descent where I then had to go inland, through a caravan park to find the small bridge to get me across the river where I turned to head back to the sea. Shortly thereafter there was another climb up and I was back on the cliff tops.

I forgot to mention that the morning started out similar to yesterday but by 1 pm the sun was out and the clouds all seemed to be behind me, it was turning into a beautiful day. I was now walking alongside a golf course that looked in great condition, but only saw one gentleman playing. The walk was now as now exhilarating and there were no more hills in front of me and before long I was on the flat, walking alongside the World Famous Chesil Beach.

A little later in the afternoon I came across a guy who was in distress. He had a huge BMW motorcycle and had been stuck for over an hour as he had got caught in a pothole and was spinning his wheels trying to get out. I tried to help him but he's going to need 3-4 guys to get out of that mess me thinks.

A little further on, just about a half mile out of West Bexington the path led me directly onto the beach which was excruciatingly slow, as it's made up of small pebbles. Thankfully I only had to do this short stretch but it made me thankful I wasn't going any further. A little while later I finally arrived into Abbotsbury, which is about a mile inland from the path where I'm staying in a thatched roofed old farmhouse. I will try and get all the details from the owner in the morning over breakfast. There are only two places in the village to get food, both pubs, and I went to the furthest which is about half a mile away. I do want to say Abbotsbury is very picturesque and I will try and get out before breakfast tomorrow to get some shots of the cottages, a lot of which date back to the 15th and 16th centuries.