Day 6

August 16, 2015

Depart Fowey | Arrive Looe, Accommodation: Meneglaze, Looe

Distance: 19.4KM | Cumulative Distance: 142.4KM | Grade - Strenuous/Moderate

Ascent: 2,713 ft | Cumulative Ascent: 13,087 ft.

Cumulative Distance (both walks): 606.4 KM | Cumulative Ascent (both walks): 74,792 ft.

The Night from Hell!

Last night was a disaster! When I checked into my hotel I asked if they could put me in the quietest room possible as I was a light sleeper, and because I knew they had live music scheduled. More on my room later, but after checking in, unpacking my bag and then showering, I went down for dinner and for a chage from pasta I had fish pie, followed by Apple pie and custard, which was excellent. I then wrote my blog, and finally around 10-30 pm I retired to my room. It was then that I realized I was right above the bar, it was like the band were playing in ther room next door! As I'm a huge footy fan (soccer), I decided to stay up and watch the highlight show of the day's Premier League action, but although I could get so und there was no picture. A quick trip down to the bar soon changed all that, and one of the staff came up to my room and after several minutes finally got the picture. Just before the show ended the music stopped and so I turned off the TV and tried to sleep. Unfortunately there were people just outside my room having a conversation which seemed to go on forever, and then it went quite, and I assume I drifted off to sleep before I was woken up by the next wave of "revellers". This seemed to go on all night!

I finally got up at 7-30am, showered, dressed and then started to pack my bag and shortly after 8 am I was ready for breakfast, but unfortunately I had to wait for 8-30 to be served. I managed to depart shortly before 9 am and quickly found my way to the ferry that was to take me across to Polruan, which was a short 5 minute ride away.

Once I was in Polruan I quickly found the sign that led me up to the cliffs and before you know it I had left the town behind and I was on the high cliffs. The day was slightly overcast but very promising and just warm enough that I didn't need my lightweight sweater. The morning was full of ups and downs, and there were some really steep climbs and the perspiration was really dropping off me! If anyone is in need of a diet then this is the place to come, as you will be guaranteed to drop weight. For the most part the walking was rather remote, but every once in a while I would meet up with someone, but this was all to change once I reached Polperro. Just before Polperro however I encountered not one, but two stiff climbs, and ahead of me was a family of four who were going at a fair clip. The second set of steps were particularly long and I counted 163 steps, and shortly after cresting the top I caught up to the family as they were enjoying both a well earned rest and the views.

I arrived into Polperro around 12-20pm and decided I had earned a coffee and flapjack, and found a great spot which I had to think was going to be good as it was also a bakery. I placed my order and was not disappointed. I limited my break to 40 minutes but left 5 minutes early as there was a young family of 4 needing somewhere to sit, and so I left 5 minutes early.

The climb out of Polperro was 20 minutes of steady climbing and this is where the fun began. In all of my time walking the SW Coast Path I have never encountered so many people before. It was amazing. Their was a major problem when I got a little further on as there was a detour inland, due to the path being re-routed, and I had to wait for a good 2 minutes due to the amount of people heading to Polperro and the fact the path was only single file. Eventually my turn came and I put a burst in to ensure no one else blocked me. The short detour brought me to a field and the path directed me further inland, along the back of what appeared to me a corn field, and then after about 4-500 yard I turned to walk parallel to the sea. I was now on a path that took me down, down, down and because this kind of walking is hard on the knees and thighs I ended up doing a light jog down, nothing major more akin to a light shuffle really.

Unfortunately every time you go down you end up paying for it as there is always another hill waiting for you, it's uncanny really. I am definitely fitter than I was 2-3 days ago and feeling stronger everyday, and now believe I have my walking legs under me. Well I'm hoping so as I have my longest day of the trip tomorrow which is the 21 miler to Cremyll.

I eventually reached the outskirts of Looe at around 2-40pm which meant I had about a mile to go before reaching the bridge I needed to cross before finding my B&B, and a couple of times I was tempted to stop for a Cornish CreamTea, but desisted and ploughed on. It was only when I was close to the bridge that I relented and instead of a traditional cream tea I decided on a coffee and scone with whipped cream. I was disappointed with the scone as they put it in the microwave to warm it up, but this caused it to go hard. Still I will probably have one moe before I leave to head up to London in a couple of weeks.

I then took the directions to my B&B from my pocket and within 10 minutes I arrived. I was warmly greeted by my Landlady Caroline, who told me to hand over any laundry and after showing me to my room told me there would be a cup of tea waiting when I got back down stairs. I was blown away by Caroline's warm welcome and when I got downstairs there was a pot of tea and a plate of chocolate biscuits, small flap-jacks and Kit-Kats. Made me wish I had not bothered with my scone, as it definitely was not as good as Caroline's spread! Shortly after "tucking in" I met Caroline's delightful husband Peter, and he was every bit as engaging as Caroline. They are lovely people whose aim is to please, something they achieve in bucket loads. Thank you Caroline and Peter for your kindness.