Day 2
August 12, 2015
Depart Coverack | Arrive Maenporth
Distance: 27.9KM | Cumulative Distance: 44.6KM | Grade - Moderate
Ascent: - 0 ft | Cumulative Ascent: 2,293 ft.
Cumulative Distance (both walks): 508.6 KM | Cumulative Ascent (both walks): 61,728 ft.
This morning I had to say farewell to Gwenda and Peter my superb hosts for the past 3 nights in Coverack. Their pretty B&B has been my home away from home, and if you are ever thinking of traveling to this part of the world I can highly recommend their establishment. The night previous I had asked Gwenda if she could provide me with a lunch, and when I asked her how much I owed she said "nothing". Gwenda went on to explain it was for my charity walk. I could not thank her enough.
I departed at 8-30 am and it was a spectacular morning, with glorious sunshine and a light breeze, it promised to be a great day for walking. The first two hours were horrendous, although I wasn't to know that when I started out. The path took me out of town into the country, and it was quite boggy underfoot, and one had to be careful where to step. I was heading to Lowland Point and soon came another handful of Shetland Ponies, and I'm never sure whether to walk by them or give them a wider berth, which is what I ended up doing. After Lowland Point I could see the disused Dean Quarry and this is where the path led me, and shortly after directed me across a beach. I thought this must be the right way as there were hiking boot footprints going in both directions. What was especially galling was the fact that I had deliberately headed away from the beach to check the signage, and sure it enough it pointed the way of the footprints. This lead to a series of scrambles over the rocks, which was very tiring because of all of the up and down, and culminated in a 20-30 climb before bush-whacking through the ferns and low shrubs for 100 feet or so before finding the path. After this the day just got better and better, although I was now being routed inland after reaching Godrevy Cove as this was an area of operating quarries. I soon reached the little hamlet of Rosenithon which still has one of the few remaining pay phones remaining in the UK.
A little while later I was closing in on Porthallow when I came across a sign that said Fat Apples Cafe, 50 yards this way, and I thought, after the morning I've had I think I've deserved a coffee, so I followed the path and ordered a flat white coffee. If you ever travel to the UK and fancy a coffee with milk or cream that's how you order it. As I was leaving the owner asked if I would like a flapjack, which is basically an energy bar, and he said it's to help me with my walk, as I was walking for charity. I was blown away by his kindness, and thanked him and his staff as I left.
2 random acts of kindness in the same day, it doesn't get any better than that.
Porthallow is also the halfway point of the SW Coast Path, and so I'm now on the homeward stretch as it were, and I'm just disappointed I missed the sign!
The walking was really spectacular after climbing out of Porthallow and I was now on a grassy track heading towards the Helford River, and came upon lots and lots of butterflies of different varieties. Unfortunately once I reached The Helford River I entered the trees and although the walking was pretty it was not as exhilarating as what I'd just left behind! This stretch of the walk is supposedly sheltered from the winds, although today was getting better and better, and I soon reached Gillan Creek which can be walked across when the tide is out, however I was about 2 hours late to reach the stepping stones and so had to "order" the ferry. To do this I had to lower the board above the beach revealing the Orange marking's, and while I waited I thought I would eat lunch, and half of my flapjack, both of which were very tasty. When I asked the ferryman how much I owed him he replied, "nothing", and went on to explain how, because I was doing a charity walk, there would be no charge. I could not thank him enough, much like the folks at Fat Apples Cafe and my fabulous hosts at Arlyn in Coverack.
I really feel blessed by all that has happened this last few months. First the wonderful people at the Downtown Sports Clinics, and Caroline Hiles my physio for agreeing to sponsor me, then Icebreaker agreeing to sponsor my shirts, and you, my incredible donor base for all your kindness in blowing the Walking People out of Poverty waaayyyyyyy past the 160,000.00 dollar mark. Your kindness and generosity knows no bound!
After Gillan Creek I now had a short walk around the headland before setting off for the walk to find the ferry to take me across the Helford River where I had to get a 2nd ferry, only this time I had to pay the 4 pound one way charge. Still I can't complain after the great day I've had.
After alighting from the ferry at Helford Passage I was now on the last leg of my walk and followed the path behind Trebah Beach where I soon reached the small village of Durgan. From Durgan I followed the path that led me into a dense wood which was quite dark, and which I'm not used after walking the cliff tops, but that was ok as it was something different to what I'm used to. A little while late I came to Rosemullion Head which eventually dropped me onto a road that led me to my accommodation, The Trelawnr Hotel at Maenporth.
Now for some photos...
Looking back to Coverack.
Shetland Ponies for the Joan.
The disused Dean Quarry
Speaks for itself really.
Another shot of Dean Quarry.
Pat phone at Rosenithon
Umbrella anyone?
Strange where the path leads. Sorry about my finger!
Just a small sample of the "wild flowers" that grow in the woods. I'm constantly amazed at their proliferation.
On the ferry over the Helford River.
Looking back over the Helford River.
Two Peacock's whose names escape me, something like Gertie and Bertie. I'll try and remember them for tomorrow.