Day 12

August 20^th Depart Port Isaac

Arrive Padstow Accommodation: Tidal Heights B&B

Distance 18.9 KM | Cumulative Distance: 259.13 KM | Grade - Easy/Strenuous

Ascent 2,802 FT | Cumulative Ascent: 36,683 FT

Google Map Padstow

Awoke at ten past six after a restful sleep and had time to pull the covers up and grab a few extra zzz's!

I could hear Nancy up and about, and the odd guest was also up as well, but just going to the bathroom. Finally, around 6 - 40 I decided to get up and get rolling, as breakfast had been set for 7 - 30 am and I had to pack my bag as I wanted to be out by 8 am. I had really enjoyed my stay with Nancy, she was one interesting lady, who was born in a suburb of Bolton, Lancs, and had been a lead singer in a band at 16. Music obviously is in the family genes as her brother is a professional trombone player. The night before I had introduced Nancy to one of my favorite singers, Lisa Gerrard, and she said that by 10 am this morning she would order up her music from Amazon. She said she was blown away by the purity of her voice and found the music haunting. If you care for unusual music I can highly recommend Liza Gerrard, her voice is remarkable!

At 8 am I was just getting ready to leave when Nancy said I might want to hold off leaving for a few minutes as it had started to rain, and it turned out to be the right call because two minutes later it started to rain really hard. 20 minutes later the rain had passed through and I set out in a very light drizzle. 5 minutes later, as I was almost down at the harbour I came across a Cornish Pasty shop and nipped in to pick up a veggie pasty and a Yorkie chocolate bar and I took this opportunity to shed my rainwear and I was set to start walking in earnest. On my way out of Port Isaac I passed the cottage that is home to Doc Martin, which is a smash hit TV show in not only England, but also the USA and Australia, about a cranky Doctor who has relocated to Portwen from London. Consequently Port Isaac has seen its tourist trade go through the roof, and last night I noted dinner entrees were 5 - 6 pounds more than other towns, and desserts 2 - 3 pounds dearer. I was now clear of town but stopped to take one final photograp and I was off. The first hour the walking was spectacular as I headed to Port Quin, although there were a couple of ups and downs, and the only people I saw were both within a few minutes of Port Isaac.

I was shocked at all the activity I saw at Port Quin, as the village is so tiny, but there were 4. - 5 double kayaks heading out, and on the far side of the tiny inlet of water was a group of young people going Coastering. There were several older guides, and everyone was wearing wetsuits, helmets and boots and they were having a great time. Originally Port Quin was a busy pilchard port, although there is no sign of it's previous past. From Port Quin I had another stiff climb and once on top the path led through a large grassy area, and in the middle I noticed they had placed a large fence around what I thought might be a conservation area. I headed over to check it out expecting to find rare orchids or grasses being preserved, but no, it was a lot more sinister. There was a huge shaft heading straight down, and it must have been all of 4 feet square. My curiosity satisfied I angled up to get back on the path and carry on my way. This part of the path was absolutely spectacular, and the difference between the Cornish coast versus the Devon Coast is the fact that you don't get the vast wide open spaces like Croyde Bay, Woolacombe or Widemouth Bay, but rather smaller coves that are more interesting. I now had another walk that led me back up on top where I encountered a half dozen workers, employed by the National Trust, having their "elevenses", which is a British tradition whereby a well deserved cup of tea is called for. I passed them by and a few minutes later it was time for me to have my break, but nothing as grand as the NT folks, just a handful of trail mix and a slug of water!

I decided, upon my first batch of stairs, that I encountered earlier in the day, that I would keep a tally of the number of stairs that I climbed. Straight off the bat, the first batch consisted of 148 stairs, followed by a short uphill section and then another 40 steps, giving a total of 188. By the end of the day I believe the number was up or around 450 give or take 10 either way.

At about 11 - 45 am I arrived at The Rumps, and a few minutes later I found a great spot for lunch, pulled out my Cornish Pasty, laid back and enjoyed lunch. If you ever get the chance to try a Cornish Pasty, do, you will not regret it. Next I tried a couple of squares of my Yorkie Bar, and finished lunch with my water, with Nunn tablets mixed in to replace my lost electrolytes. After 20 minutes basking in the glorious sunshine I was on my way again. Today had turned into the best day of the hike thus far, purely because the weather was so accommodating.

Shortly after leaving The Rumps I ascended Pentire Point which offered excellent views down to Polzeath and it was an easy descent down. After a short while I caught a fellow hiker who I had passed earlier, and he in turn passed me when I was enjoying lunch. Turns out he was a guy who originally had smoked 60 cigarettes a day, weighed 350 pounds and drank like a fish, and 19 years ago had triple by - pass surgery which was his "come to Jesus moment". He stopped smoking and drinking and slowly started to get himself in shape, but unfortunately he paid a price, as his knees are shot, plus he's got major foot problems, but he had this incredibly attitude that he would overcome whatever ailed him and was going to live life to the full. Good for him. I say. We all have our crosses to bear when it comes to health, and it's how we deal with it that defines us. I could have certainly taken the easy way out by not doing this hike, as I have 2 arthritic big toes, a hip problem and a lower disc in my back causes me grief now and then, but prefer to keep moving and not worry about it. Liz has a foot and knee problem, but dismisses it and keeps soldering on. My good friends Bruce and Norm also have ailments but don't let it stop them from getting out and pursuing their activities.

From Polzeath I now had to cross the beach, and I followed my fellow walker, and we were certainly the odd ones out in our hiking gear and walking poles at hand. Everyone else was enjoying the glorious weather in either wetsuits or more traditional beach wear. We exited the beach and Bill, the hiker, said he needed to rest for lunch, as his knees were telling him it was time to stop, so I carried on and eventually found another little beach but had difficulty finding the trail once I was across. Eventually the little acorn appeared but it was more luck than judgment that I found myself through the dunes to Rock, where I was to capture my first ferry of the trip which would take me across to Padstow.

After arriving in Padstow I was shocked at just how busy the place was, I had thought Tintagel was busy, and Woolacombe but nothing had prepared me for what I found in Padstow. I needed a bank machine and found a queue, (how typically British), that was 20 people deep, so decided I would try later in the evening and went to find my B&B where I arrived at 2-50 pm. Unfortunately no one was home and so I lay on the front lawn, after taking my boots and socks off, and just "chilled". It was lovely, with the sun beating down, and my body was so relaxed after all the trials and tribulations of all the ups and downs earlier.

Eventually my landlady arrived home at 5 pm and I was soon in the shower, getting rid of all the grime of the day, and then I headed onto town and found a great bowl of pasta which hopefully will power me through the day tomorrow, as it's the longest day of my entire 3 week trip.

In Padstow I'm staying at Tidal Heights, and staying with Mike and Marion, who are great hosts. Mike is a volunteer with the RNLI and sitting with me now as I finish this blog.

I cannot believe I'm halfway through this amazing journey, and tomorrow is the longest day I've set myself with 39k as I head to Newquay. I will be powered through the day though by the thought that Liz will have arrived in London and that I will be seeing her and my sister on Friday night.

Now for some pictures.

Port Isaac on my way out of town.

178 steps!

Ca steering at Port Quin.

One of the little coves.

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