Day 26 - Hiker Heaven Here We Come! — Walking People Out of Poverty

May 11th

Depart Messenger Flats (Mile 430.40)

Arrive Aqua Dulce (Mile 454.50)

As we had planned a long day we were out of camp and walking by 5:45 am. The previous afternoon we had met a young Welsh girl who tagged along with us into camp. Meg was her name and she hailed from Cardiff. The remarkable thing about Meg was she had never camped in her life before taking on the PCT, and she was doing a great job. Meg had also never walked further than 17.5 miles before so today was going to be a huge day for her. Upon reaching the trail, which was about 200 yards from the campsite, we were stopped in our tracks by the view. Below us, right through the valley, was cloud cover and we were going to be dropping into it. We each took several photos and then it was time to be on our way. For the next 90 minutes or so we enjoyed the sunshine as we moved steadily downhill towards the mist that was awaiting us. All of a sudden we were in it, and the unfortunate part was our water source which was located right in the thick of it. This was also the location we had chosen for breakfast. There were a number of people coming and going and those leaving soon disappeared into the mist! It was really interesting to see the water dripping from the Pine trees, and I suspect this is how most of the plants survive as they accumulate moisture from the clouds/mist.

After breakfast it was time to get after it and we started down the trail. The walking was very pleasant as we continued downhill and eventually we came out of the mist into the bright glorious sunshine. It was approaching lunchtime and we made the decision to head to the KOA at Acton, which was a detour of around 1/2 mile or so from the trail. There was also a bonus awaiting us as Tina was going to buy Meg and myself a treat from the KOA shop. When we arrived there were a number of PCT’ers stretched out on the grass and we were only too happy to join them. After a leisurely lunch it was time to go, as we still had a number of miles to navigate, and we soon picked up the trail. Shortly thereafter we had to cross the train tracks and, as I was ahead of Tina and Meg, I had to wait for them as they were delayed by a passenger train. Right after crossing the tracks we came upon a plinth with a memorial to commemorate the incorporation of the PCT. I snapped a picture of Tina, and another with both Tina and Meg, but forgot to get one of myself!

We now embarked upon a big climb that went up, up and up some more, and when the switchback allowed I was able to look down upon Tina and Meg. Ever since we had started out I noticed Meg appeared to be on her phone constantly, which explains why she wasn’t getting the big miles in. To pull down the big miles you have to be focused, as you already lose precious time when taking photos or having water/snack breaks and lunches have to be limited to the minimum of time. Tina, to her credit, was taking Meg under wing and encouraging her on but I was concerned with our progress. This concern was based on my impression that we had to reach Aqua Dulce by 7 pm. I should explain that there is a unique “set up” there called Hiker Heaven, where the majority of hikers head for the night. The Sauffley family, who own Hiker Heaven, accept hiker packages, much like a Post Office, and provide camping, cooking and shower facilities as well as stations for re-charging cell phones etc.

I was starting to feel the urgency and was pulling further and further away, and kept stopping to allow Tina and Meg to catch up. I was also feeling extremely frustrated and disappointed that I could not walk with Tina, as this was her last day of walking before heading home to Canada.

At one point I met a young fellow called Legend and he and I chatted for a few minutes. Legend was undertaking a unique trip, insomuch he had started his trip at the Arizona/Colorado border. He had walked West until reaching the Messenger Flats Campground at which point he joined the PCT North. Jeff was then going up to the NW and then turning East to pick up the CDT (Continental Divide Trail) before heading South back to Arizona. I will tell you more about this remarkable young man in a later post.

Shortly after Legend and I parted Tina caught up to me and we had a quick strategy session, and Tina advised me to push on to Aqua Dulce why she “shepherded” Meg along. It would later turn out that Meg had been severely hampered by dust in her eyes which slowed her progress considerably.

The race was on to get to Hiker Heaven and I eventually came to an area of great interest called Vasquez Rocks. It would have been great if Tina had been with me as I could have picked her brain about the very unusual rock formation’s I came across. I eventually caught up to a hiker who had passed us earlier and I suspect he was slowed by the rocks he was seeing. No doubt he was as engrossed as I was, but unlike me he had the time to investigate, something I would have enjoyed doing under different circumstances. The hiker introduced himself as Philippe and he was a Frenchman, and what was most intriguing to me was Philippe’s line of work, which was as a Diplomat in the French government. Philippe had taken a leave of absence although he had already got “irons in the fire” for his return to France upon completion of his walk. It was amazing to me how many people had quit their jobs or who had taken a leave. Philippe and I walked the last mile or two together, although an older lady gave us a ride the last mile or so on a road which was not deemed part of the PCT. I made it in with a few minutes to spare and was given a “visual” tour of the premises. There was an I.T. station for charging phones, I-Pads etc, spare clothing if you were showering. Indoor shower, and which you had to add your name to the list. In the main house, along with the shower was a kitchen as well as tv which was showing a movie to an over packed room of hikers. Personally I can honestly say I have not missed being away from TV for a nano second, but it was interesting to people watch. After getting my bearings I set about finding a camping spot that could accommodate me with room for Tina and after that I was able to have a shower without waiting too long. Afterwards I was able to chat with Tina who initially was going to stay in town but who then decided to join me in Hiker Heaven. If I’m being honest I was not happy with how the day played out, as I really wanted to hike with Tina being as this was her last day on the trail. I also thought Aqua Dulce was a lot bigger than it actually was, and was hoping to take Tina for a farewell dinner. Unfortunately the best laid schemes of mice and men........!!! Fortunately Tina is such a remarkable person none of the days events phased her, and I know my trip will not be the same without Tina’s presence, she will be missed. Over the past 27 days Tina and I have developed a tremendous rapport and we have forged a friendship that will last a lifetime and I’m proud of our accomplishments together.