Day 30 - Pulling a 36 Miler !!!

Depart Mile 522.60

Arrive Tehachipi (Mile 558.50) 

When planning for this trip last winter one of the toughest things to figure out was the daily mileage. Recognizing the elevation gain and loss was one thing but when you factor in the elements, wind, sun and rain etc, it became very challenging. Once the plan was put into place it seemed set in stone, however the longer I have been on the trail the more flexible the plan has become. Case in point was the 10 miles extra that Tina and I incorporated into the day when we landed in Bear Lake.

On May 13th I departed from Casa de Luna and was scheduled to arrive at Sawmill Campground (mile 498.20) but pushed on a further 5 miles to mile 503.20. The following day, May 14th, I had originally intended to stay at Hikertown (mile 517.60), but had both heard and read disturbing reports about the place and had made up my mind to go beyond this location. It turned out to be an excellent choice as I arrived there around 2:30 pm. But I digress so let me backtrack to the beginning of May 14th.

I had camped alone just off the trail, and was surprised that no one else had taken the opportunity to join me, such was the size of area where I had chosen to spend the night. I left camp at 6.55 am and enjoyed a very pleasant uphill walk before crossing a dirt road where I met a delightful older couple from Seattle, John and Terry. We exchanged pleasantries before John and Terry set off whilst I sat and enjoyed my breakfast. I then followed after them a short time later and enjoyed a lovely downhill section that culminated in me reaching an area that looked like a park but was marred by an ugly dirt road that scoured the terrain. Too bad. 

I caught up to John and Terry and managed to get ahead of them and was making great time. Eventually I needed to stop for a break but wished I hadn’t, because when I started up again I came to a road where there was a Trail Angel dispensing trail magic. From the time I started up to reaching the road was no more than 10 minutes. The TA’s name was John and he was a young fellow who had done the hike 2 years ago and he was paying it back. John had coffee, (a first on the trail), donuts, mini muffins, cream cheese and bagels, watermelon and apples. Shortly after I got there John and Terry arrived and we all had a good visit. It was time to move on and so I said my farewells and disappeared up the hill.

The trail to Hikertown had some very inspiring views and other times it was bland. I eventually arrived at around 2:30 pm and Hikertown was beyond tacky! I’m so thankful I made the decision not to camp there! There were a number of people who were resting up in advance of a night hike, and I decided to do the same, although I had no intention of walking the 15-20 miles they were planning. I was the first one out of Hikertown, leaving at 3:55 pm and the trail leads you along a viaduct that carries all of LA’s water and it is interesting to see. After a couple of miles or so I was joined by Mr. Giggles who as his trail name suggests is a lot of fun. We were now in the true Mojave Desert and one of the features are the Joshua trees. After a while I told Mr. Giggles I was stopping for the night and we wished each other a good evening as I stepped off the trail to find a camping spot among the trees. As I got further from the viaduct I came across a disgusting scene as there was household garbage strewn across the desert. There were mattresses, an old fridge, bits of furniture and car tires. As someone who loves all that nature has to offer it was heartbreaking. I quickly set about making camp and would advise all reading this NOT to camp too close to a Joshua tree as twice I forgot how close I was and stabbed myself in the head, not once but twice! I feel lucky I was wearing my cap or my wounds might have been more serious. After cooking dinner I turned in for an early night, which is pretty much standard, and had a restless sleep. At around 1:40 am I needed the bathroom, (one of the side effects of drinking so much water in the desert), and was blown away by the beauty of the night sky, it was incredible. I climbed back into my sleeping bag and rolled around for a time and then made the decision to get up and get walking. This particular section of the PCT has the reputation of being one of the hardest on the trail due to the heat, and that is why a lot of people hike late into the night. I left camp at 2:55 am and by 3 am I was back on the trail. Walking in the dark is not fun, but at least I didn’t have the heat to contend with, yet! At one stage I discovered I was off trail by about a half mile, and had to backtrack to find the turn I had missed, and made a mental note to get new batteries for my headlamp. Finally, at around 5 am, dawn began to break and I cannot begin to describe to you how welcome it was to be walking in daylight. At around 8 am I decided to stop for coffee and breakfast before getting on my way again. Eventually we left the viaduct and the trail took me through a windmill farm and from this point on the path started a gradual ascent which was very pleasant walking. I was joined at this point by Birdie, who is an Assistant Golf Pro in Phoenix, and the reason he is on the trail is because the course he works at is closed for 6 months for redevelopment. We now started up a big climb of 1600 feet before being dropped down to the next water source at Tylerhorse Canyon. It was 11:30 am when we arrived, and I had already been walking for 8 1/2 hours. When planning this trip Tylerhorse was my next camping spot, but with still half a day left it made sense for me to push on. Before I did so I filled up my water bottles and had lunch and departed at 12:35 pm. It was a stiff climb out of the canyon and as I was going up one side there were several hikers coming down the far side. It was now approaching the hottest part of the day but I pushed on. Unfortunately I had no choice, as unlike the younger hikers, who tend to rest during the heat of the day, I have to get my miles in why I can. The trail then started down and I stopped to assess the situation to figure out where the trail led. It was not a reassuring sight as I was being led into a blind canyon and the only way out was up the huge mountain opposite. I could see the path zig-zagging up the mountain but what I couldn’t see was what was behind the mountain. On I pressed and before too long I had started my ascent. Up and up the trail went, and the higher I went the hotter I became. It was excruciatingly difficult walking. Eventually, after about 3 1/2 hours I made it to the top and was now thinking of where I could camp, as it was now past 4 pm and I had been walking 13 hours. Eventually, around 30 minutes later, I reached a terrific little spot that was cared for by Trail Angels, and what a fantastic job they had done. There was a rack with lots of water, there was an umbrella and plastic chairs to sit and relax in, plus there were several excellent camping spots. This place is easily the best camping spot I had seen since starting this journey as it had everything. Water, a place to sit and eat dinner, and in the shade if needed. At this site I met Taiwan Dale, (an American now living in Taiwan), and his girlfriend, and a young hiker by the name of Jukebox. As it was only 4:30 pm I was faced with a dilemma. Do I camp at this delightful little spot or do I push on to Tehachipi, which was 9 1/2 miles away. My original plan was to re-supply in Tehachipi and have a Zero day, but if I could get there tonight I could have a double Zero.